- Audio version at the end of this post –
Continuing on with the PPGS golf school at The PGA Teaching and Learning Center in Port St. Lucie, Florida, only one student showed up with a driver shorter than today’s standards. He had already cut his driver down to 43 ½ inches as per my suggestions that have been written in these articles. The other seven students all had drivers ranging from 45 inches to 46 inches and the driver was the one club that they just could not hit.
Let’s recall a little history about club fitting. The standard driver length, up till the late 1980s was 43 to 43 ½ inches. Today, the standard driver length is 45, 45 ½ and 46 inches. I know over the years the population is getting a little taller with each generation, but I don’t think tall enough to really need these extra long increases in the “standard length.” And, let us not forget all of us who have played years ago with the 43 inch length wooden drivers, and are still the same height today and are trying to hit these longer metal behemoths. I ask all of you to sit back and recall how you hit those baby length, smaller head, wooden drivers compared to today’s giants. How mush easier was it to swing with control, how much more solid and straight did you hit it, and how much longer did you hit it? What about your misses? I bet they were also a lot better.
The one student who had already cut down his driver was very pleased with his improved driving, using his now shorter driver. After seeing my 43 ½ driver we had our first amputation on the first day, cutting down a 46 incher to a meager 44 by Art who is well over 6 feet tall. He saw immediate improvement in swinging easier with more balance, swing speed and solid contact. All of these improvements added up to much straighter and longer ball flight. The point he liked best was that his good shots were better and more often, but the real best benefit was that he hit way less bad shots and they were way less bad. His misses were better.
You see, we never seem to think about anything in terms of bad. But I assure you in golf, especially with the driver, less bad is definitely good. There is a saying in golf that deals with good and bad. It goes something like this, “The player who wins doesn’t hit every shot good or perfect. They’re the player whose bad shots were the least bad.” Another axiom is, “He or she who misses it best wins.” It has been rumored that Ben Hogan was fond of saying these things. As we all know, he was known for his ball striking and control.
By the last day of the school we had 3 more drivers reduced in size to 44 inches for a total of 4 players now using a driver 1 ½ to 2 inches shorter. Their handicaps ranged from 3 to 20. They all saw instant improvement in their balance, control and direction, along with big reductions in their misses and bad shots. They had less of them and they were less bad. Not too shabby for shedding a few inches that did not affect the flex and only cost $15.00. And they got a new grip.
A few months ago, in one of these daily articles, I put out a challenge to all golfers over 60 years old, 5feet 10 inches or shorter and who are swinging drivers over 44 inches long, to go and try hitting a ladies driver and report the results. Factoring out the probability that the shaft might be to weak/flexible, I was more interested in them feeling the better balance and control and ease of swinging the shorter driver, as well as likely feeling they could swing it faster with less effort than with their longer driver. The results reported were all positive for better balance, control and ball striking. They hit more good shots, less bad ones and better missed hits. Good to better golf is about hitting good misses, because no one hits them all good.
I would love to believe that I will never see another question stating that the player is hitting the rest of their clubs pretty good but asking me why they can’t hit their driver. I answer with the same comment and suggestion. “It is not you…its THE CLUB. It is too long, too upright and likely not the right flex. Go to a certified club fitter and get it checked, and get your self checked for the length and flex you need and have the fitter fix the driver to your standards.” I know this will not happen as long as the club manufacturers keep making the driver andm for that matter, the rest of the woods and irons too long.
I will close with re-stating the key to playing better golf and shooting lower scores. We strive to hit better golf shots, but in the end, “Golf is a game of misses, he or she who misses best, wins!”
The Surge!
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How do you measure the driver – from tip of the shaft to??
Where is club length measured from?
Don
Now over a week since I paid you for Downloadable DVDs and still no link to download these . When are you going to start answering emails and the telephone. People need to be aware that you are cheating people out of there money. Do the decent thing either send me DVDs or refund my money.
H Roocroft
To measure a club…….with the club on the floor at address position measure from the floor up the shaft to the top of grip(keeping the same angle of address…..
I was hitting a 46″ driver for the past few years…….just went back to 44″ and found quite a difference in consistency and believe it or not……distance!
Go figure???
Dear Surge; For years i used persimmon clubs and was grateful that they gave me a good game, but as time went on and per pressure came into play i switched to graffite and then gave way to steel, which i had fitted by a pro. After reading your remarks i’m going back and try my old persimmon clubs for another try !! Thanks for the reminder of the old standbye”s..Nick V.
Don;
I received a new driver for my birthday and it is 45 inches in length. If I choke up on it, will it give me better control? I hit pretty straight at the target, but I’m seeing less distance from my drives.
What length should I be looking at? I’m 66 years old and stand 6′ 21/2″.
Thanks..
Did you do anything to get the swingweight back in a “normal” range. Taking 2″ off a driver would reduce the swingweight about 12 points. Quite a bit.
I am told by a golf shop repair man that shortening the shaft of the driver will increase the flex (make it stiffer) as well as change the swing weight (make it lighter). Is this true, and if so, does shortening a shaft from 45″ to 44″ make that much difference? By the way I see in a 1993 edition of a Golfsmith clubmaking manual that the standard driver shaft length should be 431/2″ for men. So, it appears that you are right on re proper driver length for most of us.
Thanks Surge,
Morton Dann
Albuquerque, NM
I am 5′-7″ (tall???) but. From having to tailor every sport jacket I’ve even owned I know my arms are one inch longer than normal. Does this mean that my diver’s shaft should be even shorter?
For the same arm issue I have to have my clubs bent at -2 degrees.
Any comments?
Randy Erickson said:
November 21, 2009 at 12:16 am
“As for all the posts on DVD’s, The foundation manual, Cry, Cry, Cry, I can’t find it, I didn’t get it. Enough. It’s all there. Get your kids to show you how. They are all easy to download.
Here’s how.
1 Click on Members Login in the upper right hand corner of the home page.
2 Log in on the next page: yes you must pay to be a member
3 Then under the PPGS banner (looks like a picture) click on My Products (second from the left) and click and hold the left mouse button down.
4 A popup will appear that reads: DVD Series and Foundation manual. Click on the one you want.
If you get this far and can not figure it out you should not be golfing as it is less complex that what follows.
Good luck. Sorry to be so harsh but the posts should be about golf.”
I would like to add the following to Randy information:
When you subscribe and pay for Surge’s standard PPGS, you are getting two items, the first is access to Surge’s videos which are located in the PPGS Member’s area on the PPGS internet site and as a member you are allowed to play and watch them on your computer (the lessons are not physical DVDs). The second item you get is access to the PPGS “Foundations Manual” stored on the PPGS site which you can then read on your computer or you can download and print it.
To access either of the above mentioned two items, you must first go to the PPGS internet site (this can be done by clicking on the link in Surge’s daily blog or e-mail).
Second click on “Member’s Login” at the top of the page then enter your e-mail address, tab down and enter your password (your password is the password that you assigned yourself when you purchased the PPGS. If your have forgotten the password that you assigned yourself at the time of purchase, you can click on the “Forgotten Password?” and your password will be e-mailed to you.
Now, if you want to have the PPGS on physical DVDs (ones that you load in the DVD slot on your computer or TV) and a printed and bound copy of the “Foundations Manual,” you must call the customer service telephone number at 1-800-603-2706 and order and pay for them separately as they are not included in the purchase of the online versions.
Don
WHERE DO I GET THE 3 PROGRAMS I PAYED FOR. GIVE THEM TO ME OR MY MONEY BACK. DAMN, WILL SOMEONE PLEASE ANSWER THESE EMAILS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Surge, I want to chime in to add that I took your advice a few months ago concerning driver length and flex. For those who are new to your site, Surge not only recommends that you shorten your driver but also check the flex of your clubs as they are probably too stiff or possibly too soft. In my case I realized (after checking my swing speed) that I needed regular flex. I cut my driver by 2 inches and moved to a regular flex shaft. Now, most of my drives are in the fairway and solid.
ps. SURGE, thanks for all your continued help and complete coverage of the golf swing.
Robert
I am confused with Ed’s comment of Nov. 21, 2009 on how to measure a golf club’s lenght. Can you confirm or explain how it is really done. Also, will choking down the club have the same effect as shortening the club, i.e., the driver, as one other commenter suggested?
CUSTOMER SERVICE PROBLEMS?????????
This blog is NOT the place to seek help with downloads,dis-satisfaction or spell check jokes. Most of us are happy and want to discuss and read about serious GOLF!!!
Please if you have any technical or product problems contact customer service at 1888 847 9464.
I have found them to be very kind and always honest and helpful.
Also, you need to understand that Mr. Trahan cannot answer each and all questions asked on this site. Again, how much is this costing you? Pennies? I feel I have recieved hundreds if not comprable thousands of dollors of advice and giudance that has helped my swing imeasurably. I have saved ever E-mail from this program for over 5 months now. What a valuable book it would all be. So please, you don’t have to agree with everything advised here, but please keep your comments constructive.
Thanks
Having purchased your dvd’s (downloadable), they are in a zip file that I cannot open as my pc tells me the content is corrupt, You have a way ahead ?
Ed
Sarge that was a great idea to get a ladies driver. That’s exactly what I did last week. I got it
at Academy for 20 bucks (figured what the heck if it didn’t work) I’m 70 so I figured with the shorter shaft and lighter club I’d try it out. The school field where I hit balls was being mowed
so I had to hit it where the guy had cut and it was kind of a narrow. I found that by having to
hit it easier I was actually hitting it longer and straighter. Who knows mayber I’ll just start
using that club all the time.
Thnx for all your tips.
Joey
Hi Don
This is my first e-mail to you. I am interested in how you measure the length of a club. I just
bought a driver which is 46″ long with a regular flex and have been advised by the supplier not to
shorten the shaft as it will alter the stiffness. What are your views on this? I have a feeling that a
34″ shaft would suit me better. I am 5ft.10″ tall.
Ken
Don you are so right!
I was hitting my three wood straighter and farther than my driver before I cut it down.
I have had the program for less than a week and find what you say in as I learn this new swing, are very helpful! I have noticed that my back is even feeling better. I would also like to know if it is possible to get a copy of this program on DVD that I can use with my TV set? I have poor vision and have a hard time seeing the program on my computer screen. I also do not have the facilities to burn these DVDs. Can you help and old guy in Michigan?
Thanks
Robert
to DON FEIT:
Please read the section above your post on how to get your stuff. So many exclamation points. Just read. So easy
Now stop posting crap and call customer service.
I have seen a number of comments on how to measure the driver. Push the driver against the base of a counter in its normal playing position. Measure from the bottom of the driver to the butt end of the shaft.
Those wondering if shortening the club will change the flex of the shaft, it will not, that comes from tip trimming. Shortening the club will change the swing weight a small amount, I am sure that most of us will notice virtually no difference. You can counter that by using a lighter grip when you install a new grip.
I hope this will help you.
Dennis Tessmer
first i thank you much for the undying tips which i been receiving. in fact anytime you send me i forward all of it to my bro in saudi arabia (been working there with parsons) and he loves it too. i tried everything to improve my swing specially the driver and still and most of the time slice it. sorry i probably fail your class if see me with my driver. (lol) thanks a lot don. you save me alot of my other swing. i use hybrids and kinda luv them except my (damn) driver.
I would like to address a couple of the questions from above but before I do, I will give you my qualifications to assist. I am a master fitter/builder and have been working with individuals on driver fitting for some time.
First, to properly measure the length of you current driver you start with the head on the floor or ground in a properly soled position (flat). Take a tape meaure, yard stick, or whatever and measure from the ground just behind the heel of the club right up the shaft all the way to the grip.
Secondly, to fing the right length driver for you, put a piece of impact tape, or duct tape, and put in one the face of the driver. Hit 3 to 5 shots. If the shots are “centered”, mark 1/2″ shorter on the grip and repeat. Keep doing this until you are hitting the ball in the middle of the club face.
Why is that important? For the first 1/4″ off center you hit a ball, you loose 8 yrds. The next quarter inch is about an additional 9.5 yds. I won’t continue but you see the point is that by missing only a total of 1/2″, you lost roughly 17yds. The other benefit and most importantly is that you gaing control of your shots.
If you liked your swing weight before and want that same feel, you loose about 3 swing weights for each 1/2″ cut so you’ll need to add about 6 inches of lead tape per each 1/2″ cut. You can put them on in strips to your liking.
I can share the frustration with the people who cannot find the manual. When I click on My Products, the only tab that shows up is the one for dvd’s .
There is no tab for Foundation manual.
All the dvd’s work perfectly and are all downloadable.
Call me crazy!
My Big Bertha Diablo is about 43-3/4 or 44″ the way it came, maybe that’s why I like it so much….
I have heard the sweetspot is higher in modern drivers. Does that mean above the “center” that is indicated by the parallel lines that surround the apparent center? I own an RX 7.
Thanks Surge, I have been working on the 3/4 stroke (swing) since I have purchased your videos. It WORKS!!! I did not get the video on the drivers. The swing for these clubs or a mystery to me. I beleive you are correct about the lenght of the drivers. I just purchase a stiffer shaft driver because my head speed has increased from 62 miles per hr. to 91 miles per hr. The senior Cleveland ultralight I was using had too much flex and I could not hit the ball straight to save my life without closing the face alot. I am 5ft. 6in. tall and have to chock up on just about all my standard clubs. Do you think I am a canidate for club adjustment? Will you advise me on the proper stroke (swing) with my drivers? Thanks, Jim Rush
SURGE:
Per you earlier suggestion, I have “stuck with” my old TaylorMade Buble Shaft driver (shorter length shaft, small head, 9 degree loft) — and I do hit it very striaght.(average fairways hit is 9 or 10)
Howerver, with advancing age, I think it may be time to re-shaft with either a “Regular” or perhaps a “Senior” shaft. At 68 years olds, 5′9″ and 175 lbs, I am averaging about 150 yds from the tee — and playing from the second tees also(per your suggestion)
Another reason for staying with this driver — with the newer “Large headed” drivers, they ALLOWS “torque open” at the start of the downswing with a resultant huge push to right or frequently a full-blown slice.
Any adivce on this thought?
Amos
I’m going to try one of my wife’s drivers to see if I do better with a shorter club. I’m 6 ft.and my driver is 451/2 in. Thanks for the suggestion.
Don,
What if I just choke up instead of shortening the shaft? Will that make a difference, or are there other reasons one needs to shorten the shaft?
Don,
First off let me say I purchased your product this week. I shaved 11 strokes off of last weeks game which was a disaster at 107 and I about quit for good. I was on par to break 90 about six months ago when everything fell apart in my game .
I hit my driver and fairway wood better than I have in the past 6 mos. I shot a 96 with 3 pars and 2 birdies. However, I topped alot of my mid irons which I normally don’t do. Not thin , but plain top and dribble ! I didnt see anything about this in the manual or DVD’s. My handicap is 22 so I’m a struggling golfer. If you dont have time to answer, I understand . I’ll keep trying the system.
Thank you
Bart Camps
Hi,
re: foundation manual– of course, it would be nice if all the comments would be only about golf,
alas, I have paid for my membership, your site is easy to navigate, the downloads are of good quality. There is no Foundation Manual under Products on my download, DVD’s only!
Is it possible that you provide different downloads, or in some instances you do not let the buyer download the Foundation Manual?
Regards
Walter
What should I do if my driver is 46″ and I hit it better than any other of my clubs.
I find the modern woods, in general, too LONG.
I have a Ping G2 driver that is 44″ long and a Titleist 975 that is 43.5″ long, Through proper grip selection (42 g grip) and having 65 g shafts, they both come in at D0 swingweight. They feel and hit well.
My 9 wood is 39 5/8″ long with a 59.5 deg lie and I CRUSH my fairway shots about 190 or so. My 5 wood is about 41″ and I hit it 200 just about every time (I also have a Callaway Steelhead 5 wood with about a 40.5″ uniflex shaft).
i find numbers in golf balls what’s do they stand for.
I do like the shorter driver myself. However, what seems to be more important to me is the club-face. I like to fade the ball and most if not all drivers off the rack are set up for a draw. I also think this makes it difficult for a lot of players to line up properly.
The balance of the club and feel are extremely important. If you can swing a longer club go for it. However, if you are struggling with the driver try this:
1. Choke all the way down the grip with your right hand at the bottom of the grip. If you hit the ball solid of the tee then move up about an inch or so until you begin to struggle again.
2. Once you find your comfort zone with the grip mark it with a pencil or something. Then start at the bottom again and begin to work your way up again.
3. Check your comfort zone again and if your first line is close to the second line then you have a reference for the length of driver that you can swing with confidence and control.
This will give you a starting point when you go to your club maker to begin the process of reducing the length of your club. As stated above, don’t just whack off inches from your driver without taking into consideration balance and feel. Work with someone qualified to do this and don’t try this out in your garage, otherwise you will be throwing away a perfectly good shaft. http://www.aboutjuniorgolf.com
to ALL :
A big OPPPPPPPPS in my above posting — it should read as follows —-
Another reason for staying with this driver — with the newer “Large headed” drivers, they ALWAYS “torque open” at the start of the downswing with a resultant huge push to right or frequently a full-blown slice. The shot goes farther — but way into the adjoining fairway.
Amos
Boy…that statement…“Golf is a game of misses, he or she who misses best, wins!” is SO TRUE! Minimizing the REALLY bad shots is the key to lower scores. A lot of that could be achieved by simply swinging within YOUR physical capabilities. The minute we swing too hard, the BIG misses start occurring.
Mr.Trahan,
Speaking of shorter shafts. What is your opionion on the outfit 1IRONGOLF? They make all the shaft lengths wrist to floor for every club head.
http://www.1irongolf.com/
Bill
Don,
Absolutley play drivers at 43.5″ to 44.5″. I have been building clubs for 22 years and experimented with innovation. I have purchased several pro-line drivers and always had to modify them depending on the shaft. Yes, the swingweight factor should be addressed by pulling the shaft or re-shafting; especially with the ultra lite shafts used by the major club builders.
I have found that trimming the tips the the shafts 1/2″and trimming the butt end to a playing length;then increase the swing weights in clubhead/shaft will yeild a very playable club.
To simply trim the butt end will not allow the shafts to perform as designed (flex & kickpoint along the shaft). They will definitley play way too light ande affect performance. Plus, there are many variances in shaft flex among manufactures, they offer overlapping flexes. There is no industry standard for any flex.
Tim Brandt
It had been suggested by some in this forum to read Ernest Jones “Swing the clubhead method”, so I did. It was like explaining rocket science to a 5 year old, and the kid getting it! Todays golf instruction can get so complicated, needless to say mind-bobbling. This book was a revalation to me in as much as I learned I was a huge leverage man. Once one senses and feels the clubhead through the stroke of a true swing then one has the foundation in which to build upon to be a good if not great golfer. Clearly, Dons system of PPGS has much merit. But unless we first first learn to SWING the clubhead and FEEL its presence throughout that swing, we my be doomed to repeating the same old mistkes time and time again.
So, if you struggling out there, even with Dons system, RUN out and get a copy of that book and read it carefully. Like me, you will be happy you did!!!
surge
I drive with my three wood. cut it down two inches ,and what a difference.still kept my distance(250-270) but control is better. I feel much more balanced in my stance then before.People ask me all the time, why don’t you use a driver? My answer- I can find my ball a lot easier in the fairway at 250 than in the woods at 280. It’s not the longest drive of the day that WINS, it’s the LOWEST score on the card.
Thanks for all of your help and knowledge
Pete Schengrund.
Surge,
I agree that shorter drivers equate to more control which also equates to longer drivers for the most part. But if you tell a golfer to cut two inches off his 46 inch driver so he will have better control, you simply MUST comment that you have greatly decreased the swing weighting as well. In some cases lowering swing weigning is a good thing but people need to be aware of this fact when cutting down their driver shafts.
I would prefer that a golfer with a 46 inch driver simply choke down two inches and you have accomplished the very same thing and have not altered the swing weighting. Now then, you can cut the shaft down from the butt end and then apply some swing weight sticky stripes to the back side of the driver head and then get your dirver checked out on a swing weight machine.
Lastly (and I am not the first guy to mention this), you should contemplate either getting rid of your current proof reader if in fact you even have one. I say this because you cannot write ONE article without us readers seeing glaring typo’s misspelled words, etc. In my opinion this is the only area of your articles that causes some folks to feel that you are not the consumate professional they want you to be. I subscribe to your PPGS and love your articles along with your teachings. But the way you piece together your articles is simply not up to par with all the other golf rags out there today. Matter of fact, if in fact you do employ a proof reader, he would have been fired long ago by any accredited golf subscription service. Honest he would.
About club length, I have known that my present clubs are too long for me since the first season I used them, but I’m too dumb to figure out how to find a club fitter.
Can you suggest how to find the club fitter in Dover Delaware area?
Thanks for all of y our useful suggestions and teaching.
Ted Trafka
Don,
I can’t myself….I have to tell you how I got a longer driver that I’ve succeeded with.
While killing time waiting for the tee, my customer and I decided to take a few “Happy Gilmore” shots into the woods across the road. I hit one on the hosel of a rather inexpensive driver that worked for me and I broke it right at the hosel. It helicoptered thru the air across the road and across the fence into a gas company compound that was impenetrable. When I called the gas company to tell them I wanted my clubhead back, I said that I probably had a story she hadn’t heard before…..she thought she had heard them all. When I’d explained, and she’d regained her composutre, she gave me a service guy’s cell number and he met me out there and I got my head back.
I took it to the guy that made it for me and he said that because it had broken at the hosel, it was under warranty. When I went to pick it up, he was about to cut off the shaft to normal length. I told him I wanted to hit it long and to leave it…..if I didn’t like it I’d cut it off myself and regrip it. I’ve been hitting it ever since. I have a bagful of Ping ISIs and fairway woods but I can’t hit their drivers like I hit this $200 piece of crap with a good warranty.
I enjoy your emails.
Thanks.
Wayne
Aloha Don,
I ordered your dvd’s but did not get the book. In some of your articles you reference page numbers but I don’t have book to go to.I am still struggling on your ppgs and have know way to correct myself. I let one of the pros at my local golf course barrow dvd and he asked me why i wanted to learn this swing. I simply told him that as much as i like to play my back can’t handle playing with a full swing. Right now aleve is my best friend before and after a round of golf. Another subject is getting fitted for clubs Bill had asked a question about 1 Iron golf and i was looking into buying a set of clubs from them.
Good Day
Please inform me of the correct way to measure the length of a driver and if it is to long, wont it help
to just choke down on the shaft? I’m quite a distance from a golf shop that will do alterations.
Thanking You
Henry Pike ( South Africa )
I have 45″ shafts in my drivers, however, I grip down so my “trigger finger” is “hooked” around the bottom of the grip (as if it were a real trigger).
This effectively shortens my clubs, but will this be as effective as actually shortening them. (I use the same grip with all my clubs except putter.)
Hay Surge,
I am 50yrs old, 6′ 3″ 245lbs with a FUSED lower spine. As a result I have very limited body turn, all arms you could say and have an upright stance. I am looking at a new FT_IQ driver. I have a Big Bertha now, but can not hit it with any consistency.(Left, right,short. Mostly short with a fade/slice)
It has a 43″(from top of grip to the top of the hosel) stiff flex.graphite shaft. I have a swing speed 98-102 mph on a good day. After reading your feed back on shorter shafted drivers my question is ; is mine to short? When I do hit it solid I can reach 230/240 yds out. But not offen. As a result I use my 3 wood most often, even on wide open par 5’s just to keep the ball inplay. Can you shine a light on my dilemma. 43/44/45″ shaft.
Hi Don. I just wanted to let you know about my first PPGS attempts. I had to lay off swinging a club about 3 1/2 weeks ago as I bruised a couple of ribs at work and it was very painful to do anything let alone golfing. Today I went to a range and gave it a try. I was still sore but by using the swing techniques in your videos I was surprised at how well I did. A few times I hit balls as far as I did with my “old swing”. Plus I choked up on my driver about an inch and a half and had a good outing ( I’ll be cutting down my driver this week). The real clincher was when I got home I wasn’t any more sore than before I started hitting balls- that was a huge relief, as I was worried I might not be able to golf for a couple of more weeks. That means I will hit the rang again this week to practice more. Thanks , StammenRandy
Greetings, PPS delegates,
This might seem a bit “hokey”, but here is a way to establish better alignment (it’s been working well for me, anyway). It uses a combination of alignment techniques usually taught but with a slight added “twist”. Tee or fairway (even, God forbid, rough) try this:
1. Standing behind ball, pick out a spot about 1 foot or so in front of ball on your intended line of flight.
2.Hold your club with both hands out (parallel to your waist, shoulders, toe line) so that it is over the ball and the spot you’ve picked out in front of ball. You are now lined up parallel to your target line.
3.CAREFULLY select your comfortable distance (stance) to the ball keeping your established allignment.
This takes only a few seconds but it will really help your accuracy. It’s akin to establishing the “outer rail” in the old railroad track visual (Step #2) and the “inner rail (Step #3). Hope you find this helpful.
Regards,
Ray Gawlak
Dear Don
Just to endorse what you have been saying about “bigger drivers”.
This year for the first time I was fitted for a new driver, having always bought off the shelf before. During a fitting process of almost one hour the “right shaft for me” was identified and the new club ordered and purchased.
My old driver had been in the bag for five seasons and clearly technology had moved on in the meantime. The result of changing has been to see my distance off the tee – with no change in technique – improve by about ten percent – from 200/220 yards average to 230 yards plus consistently. (Best drives of the season – several of 260 yards plus!)
However, you are so right when you say that the misshits are more punishing! Also, personally I find my new larger headed driver harder to work the ball. Dead straight is no problem but fades and certainly draws appear harder to execute. Controlling and shaping the ball flight is one of the main fascinations of the game for me. In this respect bigger heads and longer shafts appear to make this harder to do – for me at least.
Anthony Kim grips down on all his clubs noticeably (so does Sergio – frequently). Can you say if this is a better solution to cutting down the shaft length – which I guess upsets the swing weight and performance of the club – or not?
I know this section is not for you to provide answers – perhaps other readers have comments!
Hi. Having read all your information on shortening drivers, I excitedly decided to get my Cobra 2008 driver shortened by 2″. I have tried two local Clubs to have this done, the first being my own, but they told me it would ruin my club. The balance/Flex and weight would all change for the worse and I would lose a perfectly good club; they would not do the reduction. The secound said the same, refusing to do the work and adding that a lesson would be best to see if I had a swing fault they could correct before deciding drastic action as shortening the club rendering the club no longer usable. No one here seems to want to do the work, who is right, who is wrong? I look forward to your reply. Thanks. Jim Mason
Here are a couple of things in regards to driver swingweight. A club with a 200 gram head, 65 gram shaft 44″ long and standard 52 gram grip will come out to swingweight C7,
Changing the grip to 42 grams (such as a Winn Excel RF) will bring the swingweight to C9 (this is what my Ping G2 driver swingweight is). A 205 gram head will yield D2 swingweight with this grip and shaft. So a 43.5 inch driver with 205 gram head, 65 gram shaft and 42 gram grip will yield D0 swingweight (this is my Titleist 975D driver).
I also found out that the perfect fairway wood is somewhere between 40-41.5″. I found out, when returning to playing golf 3 years ago that the new fairway woods with graphite shafts were just too darn LONG. In the good ole days of laminated wooden woods, my longest drive (325 yards) was with a wooden 3 wood. Again, the perfect shaft (IMHO) for a fairway wood is 65-75 gram graphite or True Temper Light XL steel. Driver-5-9 wood (or 24 deg 7 wood) seems to be a good setup. Even Gary Player fesses up to using a 9 wood and Stuart Appleby fessed up to using a 7 wood.
Before I learned about things like lighter grips bringing the swingweight back up, I was putting enormous amounts of swingweight tape on the heads of woods and hybrids with graphite shafts. OK with hybrids; not so good with woods.