The Surge asked me to do an article regarding shaft dynamics and how they relate to the golfer. Unfortunately there is a lot of misinformation propagated by retail clerks, professionals, and even the shaft companies themselves when it comes to shafts and what they do or don’t do. There are several characteristics of golf club shafts that should be considered and which will have a dramatic affect on the playability of the shaft for an individual. In this article, we will look at a few of the basic properties of a shaft and how they correlate to the swing.
Flex is a common term often used to denote the amount of bend in a shaft. The designations are usually: L for ladies, A or M for senior, R for regular, S for stiff, and X for extra stiff. Sometimes you may even find XX or XXX. These are usually “telephone poles” and used by very hard and fast swingers such as your long drive professionals. However, the flex of a club is really the amount of cycles that the club will vibrate per minute when “twanged” while being secured in a stable holding device, like a clamp or vice. The amount of vibrations or CPMs (cycles per minute) are then correlated to a chart that a company has devised and the corresponding flex is assigned to the shaft.
The problem with this practice is that there is no longer an industry standard as to what vibration range equals what flex. So, the result is that you can have many and various shafts that have the same flex label that do not have the same CPMs. Another consideration when determining the CPMs is what size holding device, usually a clamp, was used to get the CPMs? Some companies use a 2.5” clamp and some companies use a 5” clamp. If you were to take the same shaft and test the CPMs under both clamps, the one under the 5” clamp would have a higher CPM.
Just how does a player know what flex shaft he needs? Swing speed is often mentioned as the determining factor of what flex is correct for the player. However, this is misleading. The actual factor is the club head speed. Swing speed and club head speed are not the same. Along with club head speed, you must take into consideration the players tempo. Tempo is the amount of time elapsed from the beginning of the back swing until contact with the ball. The third and most overlooked aspect of fitting for the correct shaft is the release point. Where the golfer releases the club in the swing will also dictate the shaft characteristics that will be needed to properly fit them.
Let’s look at a couple examples to explain what I am talking about. Say that we have two golfers with an identical club head speed of 100MPH with a driver. Historically, most golf establishments would have told them both that they need the same shaft. Now, let’s factor in the Player A has a 1.4 sec. tempo and Player B has a .9 sec. tempo, Player B would need a stiffer playing shaft, more accurately stiffer in the mid section, due to where he is loading the shaft. Player A has a release point of 6 o’clock and Player B has a release point of 8 o’clock (the clock is viewed face on as you look at the golfer from the front). Player A would need a shaft that is stiffer in the tip. Ok, so just how do you know what shaft out there can match all that criteria? Great question. Try asking that one at your local retail shop. We’ll get to the answer in just a bit.
Let’s look at a recent fitting that I did that shows just how important getting the profiles of the shaft correct for the player really is. The fitting I’m referring to was of The Surge. If you looked at his club head speed you’d say that he needed a stiff flex shaft. Even when you factored in his tempo you’d say he needed a stiff flex shaft. But, just what is a stiff flex shaft. It’s like saying what is hot and what is cold. It means different things to different people. Remember, flex is designated to the shaft by a company based on the vibration frequency of the shaft as it is clamped at 2.5” or 5”. In other words, it’s giving you the shaft characteristics of the shaft under your left hand (rt. handed player). Wow, that’s a maximum of 5” out of a shaft that is 46” raw length.
More on that later. Back to Surge. Surge was playing a stiff flex shaft but it was a Graffaloy Blue Pro Launch shaft. Now the Surge’s club head speed is still pretty good, in the mid to upper 90 MPH range. His tempo is quick and he has a late release. So, what was wrong with the Pro Launch shaft? The mid and tip sections were too soft for his swing and, as a result, he would leave shots to the right on his misses. When we did his fitting, we ran his numbers and the shaft that fit him best actually says R flex on the shaft. But, his R shaft plays stiffer than a lot of S flexes. It has a fairly tight mid section and a firm tip.
Now, I’m sure that some of you have tested clubs at your local retailer or at a demo day that had the same shaft designation for flex listed on the shaft. But when you hit the clubs they did not react or feel the same at all. Why is this? The answer quite simply is there is no industry standard any longer as to what constitutes a particular flex. You can compare one company’s R flex to its S flex, but from company to company you can no longer make any generalized comparisons. Let’s take a Graffaloy Pro Launch Blue shaft in stiff flex and compare it to a Fuji Motore’ stiff flex. These two shafts are about as different as night and day, even though they both have stiff flex labeled on the shaft. The Motore’ will play considerably stiffer all the way around with lower launch and a much lower torque rating.
Torque is another factor of a golf shaft that needs to be considered when getting the correct shaft for a player. Torque is the shaft’s resistance to twist. That twist factor comes from the force of hitting a golf ball on the club face and from the actual swinging of the golf club. Obviously, the further you hit the ball from the hosel on the club face the more torque is required. Torque can also relate to the “feel”. If you have a slower swing speed, then you don’t want a club with too low a torque as the club will have a very “harsh” stiff, almost “boardy” feel, to it. Conversely, if you have a high swing speed, you don’t want a shaft with too high a torque as the club head will twist drastically as you swing. That will put additional side spin on the ball which will cause the ball to fly off line as well because you will lose energy. That equates to losing distance.
Along with torque, which deals with the tip of the golf club, you also have a choice of shaft tip sizes. You can get most driver shafts in .335 or .350 tips. The .335 shaft will play softer and theoretically allows more “working” of the golf ball. Most professionals play .335 tips in their woods. Hybrids generally have a .370 diameter but you can find some in the .335 and .350 range. Irons will either have a .370 parallel tip or a .355 taper tip.
One other shaft characteristic that I want to address is kick point. Kick point is the spot on the shaft where it flexes or bends the most. A shaft with a high kick point will hit the ball with a lower trajectory and one with a low kick point will launch the ball higher.
I also believe that there is a proper way to orient the shaft in the head for maximum playability and repeatability. The shaft, no matter how well it’s made, will have a spine or seam. I read on one of the blogs recently that a gentleman thought this area of club technology is bogus because if you spend enough money on a shaft, you won’t need to have it aligned. The major difference in the great shafts and the poor shafts is the amount of spines and how pronounced they are. But even the best and most expensive shaft will have a hard side or spine. It will also have a NBP (neutral bend point) and it will have a FLO point. This is the spot where the shaft does nothing but vibrate back and forth perfectly. The benefit of this is that you are not “fighting” the shaft to get the club head back to square. The shaft is doing all it can to help square the club head up as you swing. Orient the shaft in any other position than FLOed, the club head will do circles and somersaults. To see this for yourself, take a driver and put the butt end in a vice and a laser pointer on the head (if you have one) and watch the pattern that the head makes. With most clubs you’ll be able to see this effect even without a laser.
Shaft manufacturers can do all kinds of things with shafts and playing characteristics. So how in the world does the golfer know which shaft is correct for him? The simple hard truth is, he doesn’t! And, again, if you walk into most retail establishments and expect to get the proper information and help, you are in for a letdown. The only true way to get properly fitted for the correct shaft, regardless of what club it is going in, is to see a certified fitting professional. This is the answer to the question asked earlier regarding how to find a shaft that fits all the parameters of your swing. Club makers and fitters profile shafts. That means we take readings of the shaft for the entire length of the shaft and then arrive at the characteristics of these shafts and group them into BUTT, MIDDLE, and TIP readings. I have two different programs that have the profiles of over 700 shafts listed and a program that I put the fitting numbers for a golfer into and a list of suitable shafts is the given that match the dynamics of their swing.
Bottom line, to play the best and most consistent golf that you are capable of playing, it is essential, for accuracy and distance, to ensure that you have the proper shafts in all your clubs. Go see a fitter. If you don’t know one, I’ll try to locate one near you. Email me at: thegolfstop@att.net.
J. Lynn Griffin,
Certified Master Fitting Professional
PPGS Certified Instructor
Tell me what you're thinking... and what part of the golf swing, or this great game... you'd like to know more about. If you want your pic to show with your comment, go get a 
J, I did not mean to imply that I think it is theory. What I meant is that I just don’t know. I believe you. You are the expert. Not me. I can, however, understand why someone would think or feel like the twist may not be happening when the ball is struck in the sweetspot. It would seem to me to feel like there is less twist at impact, when the ball is compressed more. But I have no idea what really happens. I think you have already told us what happens. I believe you.
I have a 5-wood with one of those Prolaunch Blue shafts in it. It has a lot of twist, and swinging it is about like doing the Chubby Checker
I can hit the sweetspot on that club all day long, and the clubhead will be more open coming through, and give even more at impact. So I know you are correct, Mr. Griffin. And I was trying to say that I agree with you. …not that anybody cares what I think or have to say.
Great article also, by the way, Mr. Griffin. I’d like to hear some more of your knowledge within respect to how other factors affect the behavior of a golf shaft such as, swingweight, total weight, clubhead weight, shaft length, perhaps even grip weight. It is all a mystery to me. There are so many factors involved that for most of us finding a club that works well for us is sort of like finding a needle in a haystack. My approach for several years has been to buy clubs on eBay, try them out, and then sell them on eBay, if they are not a good fit for me. But I am thinking that I need to just shell out the money to get fitted. It would likely save me a lot of time and money in the long run, and also do more to help my game. …though it is probably just as beyond help as I.
Hello Surge….The PPGS is the swing I’ve been looking for for many years. Thanks for the lessons and the continued update on the PPGS. Here’s is my questions. I’m going to be 70 next month and I’ve always wanted to get into the golf business. However, everyone told me that I could not make any money working in that business. Should not have listened to those people…Am retire from the building and land development business. My residence is Livonia, Michigan, a suburb of Detroit. Oh Yes! my questions is: What quailifications would I have to have to be come one of your Certified Instructor. And lastly, are their any CI in my area? If so, would you please furnish contact information?
Best Regards,
Ettore Paolucci
Very informative. My very serious question is ” will a 20 handicapper benefit from culbs customized to the extent of refining the shaft selection based on the above material help” when that recreational golf cannot repeat the golf swing?
I’m a bogey golfer recently fitted with Ping irons and the club fitter was challenged because both the face and sole tape showed between a half and a full inch difference!
I see there was over 100 comments on this topic but I see only a few what happened to the rest of them??
to J Griffin:
Thanks for the “heads up” — and Yes — I understand the concept of “ballpark” — It was all that I expecting.
I will have to wait awhile yet — Need to see how much I oew IRS this year :<(((
Please keep me posted though
Keep hittingthem STRAIGHT and LONG
Amos
to kobelarry:
to see older comments — use the “older comments” link located below over SURGE’s picture. It is printed in GREEN
Amos
Buzzard,
The shaft is the engine that drives the golf club. So, just how important is it to have the right shaft? The extent that fitting helps a golfer is not something that is measureable. It generally will have a greater impact the highter the handicap. Let’s face it, it’s a lot easier to take 5 to 10 strokes off a 30 handicap than it is to take 3 off a 6 handicap. The consideration is that it helps with playability and consistency.
Yep, some basic and fairly inexpensive things such as lie angle, swingweight, and shaft are pretty much a must, if you want to improve, in my opinion. Because these things will mess up your swing and cause you to develop bad habits if they are not a close enough fit throughout the set. The shaft doesn’t necessarily have to be a perfect fit, but it does need to be close, in terms of flex and weight. The swingweight throughout the set needs to be close, and within a few swingweight points. The lie angle should be as accurate as you can get it. My point is that if the clubs are not a close enough fit, your swing will be less likely to get any better, because you are going to have to make a drastically different swing with each individual club. They don’t have to be perfect, but do need to be close enough. Most club fitters, I suspect Mr. Griffin included, would work with you on doing some lesser expensive things, such as just adjusting the lie angle, without it costing you an arm and a leg to replace your entire set. The fact that the sole tape shows a big difference is not necessarily a sign that your swing is bad, in my opinion. In my case, a correct lie adjustment puts the total span from wedge to 3-iron at about 4 degrees difference. Off the rack, most sets of irons will have about 8 degrees or so difference between the wedges and 3-iron. When the lie angle is not correct, it also sets the center of gravity of the clubhead juxtaposed to the shaft in a way that is not conducive to a good swing plane. If you hand me a club that is way too upright, for example, my swing would probably show the same inconsistencies, because my instinct would kick in and make me want to hold the face open to keep from hitting a hook. For me, when the lie angle is correct, it is much easier for me to swing the club on a correct plane. Would you agree about the costs Mr. Griffin? …there are some lesser expensive things you could do to help people, without having to invest in a new set across the board?
Also, if you can strike the ball within a half or three-quarter inch circle on the clubface all the time, that is darn good, in my opinion. I suspect the best players in the world would be happy with a half inch or so. Just my opinion, but I personally think that is very good.
Sets can certainly be retro fit to the golfer. If a player has a set of heads that he likes the look and feel of then it would no need to get a new set. Have the old set retro-fit. The degree you have the set done would be determined by what you want to pay. It also doesn’t have to all be done at once.
great article!
I have a non-standard swing, that has the advantage of being able to be accelerating the clubhead through impact( or you could say that I am releasing the clubhead only AFTER it’s been struck). so for me, any amount of tip flex is just not helpful, it’s just draining the punch out of my drives. But I have had a real time of it trying to find someone who would help me figure out which shafts would be good for me. they all just wanted to talk about what my swing speed was (96), I needed a normal stiff shaft, and can I sell you some lessons? he didn’t want to hear about what I was trying to do, and although they did end up getting me a shaft that worked better, I really think if they could have gotten what I was doing, we could have gotten a better fit.
Hearing you talk about the details of how you set up shafts makes so much more sense to me than what I have been hearing.
lynn, are there any clubfitters, that you could recommend in the Tempe AZ or Scottsdale area? Perhaps someone who is quite openminded about different types of swing mechanics?
great article, thanks lynn, and thanks surge for posting this…
Richard,
Will be glad to try and help. Send a private email to: thegolfstop@att.net
Her in the philippines it is almost imposible to fins a “real” gold club fitter. The coaches and teachers do not agree with PPGS, however, I have been practicing your theories. I reduced my driver to 44′ and reduced the shaft weight to only 50gms (last was 65) it is much lighter and easier to swing (I am 70, 5′4″ and weigh no more than 135lbs) I am getting abround 230 yds from the tee. 165 yds with my 5 iron. I love your PPGS, My scores are not yet better, but I am certain my stroke is better, so I am hoping with further practice I will reduce my over all score The coures is not easy, most fairways have OOB or water drain left and right , penaties of course. I am saving strokes by staying in the fairway, but as I said in my last entry, I am hitting left with the shorter Irons. I need a little advice please help. John
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHERE MR.J.LYNN GRIFFIN IS LOCATED AND IF THERE IS A PHONE # FOR HIM, KERRY GREENWOOD PGA MEMBER
I’m in Columbia, SC and my phone number is 803/798-1030.
Mr. Griffin ask us to e-mail him if we would like him to refer us to a certified golf professional in the Houston area. I have not received a response. Can you help? Thx. Phil Staley
Phil,
I didn’t get one as I’ve answered every email that I got. Try again please: thegolfstop@att.net
make sure you type STOP and not SHOP
Surge :
Enjoy your PPGS articles , , am self taught 33HC golf duffer that really loves the challange of the game , , like all envoled , ,don’t like the frustration of a bad Hit , Game ,Or day , ,but believe its all in the game . I am using your lessons to improve my game and its working .Thanks so much for the help , advice ,and instructions and explainations as to ” why “..Now this article about the clubshafts is remarkably awsome .WHO would’ve thought it ,,?? nobody, , but somebody on the inside , ,and they were willing to share…I’m sure it will set a bunch of minds to reeling…I will use this info on my next fitting…!!
Thanks again for the help , ,!!!
Keep it up !!!
Ken
D.T.: Non-OEM clubs v. Name Brand clubs: I’ve been around the sport of golf for over 50 yrs,, playing, mentoring my golfing kds, & for the past 15+ years as a club maker. All of them have played or made their own clubs with a good deal of success. Two of my sons, and one of my daughters are all single digit players, ranging from 2.5 to 8. The first driver I made for one of them was with component parts, We went to the driving range, & after a warmup, he hit the first ball dead straight, that cleared the 250. yard marker. He had been playing pitch & putt courses for about a year. The younger one qualified for the Illinjois State Amateur tournament this fall.
A couple years ago, he tried out (3) name brand clubs at Golfsmith. The salesman there, said “why don’t you try our brand’, which he did.That driver hit 10-15 yds.farther than the name brand clubs. Earlier last year, he replaced his Titleist irons with ones similiar to Titleist. The component blades felt just as good, went 10 yards farther, and at a third of the cost of the Titleist irons. My daughter plays with a Paula Cremer style driver, which I made for her. The Sunday after Christmas we played a round, and she drove the green on a 270 yd. par four hole! I had an interesting experience at the Cleveland Test Center, down the coast from where we live. I wanted to try out some short irons. It was a new facility & testing equipment, but it had a hard plastic block to hit from. First I hit my club, & then the Callaways..My $40.club was going 5-7 yds. farther than their clubs. When I asked the sales guy why should I buy Callaways for $115. each, when my club is going longer than yours? He said your hitting our clubs fat! A couple minutes later, he gave me my testing sheet, turned around and walked the door.
What do you guys think about “The Whippy TempoMaster”. A shaft you can almost bend double yet guys can hit it straighter and more consistent than they can with a regular stiff shaft. I think most peoples problem with distance and accuracy is using a shaft that allows the golfer to use his hands at the beginning of the downswing.
John