For years now, the basic marketing pitch by club manufacturers about driver shaft length has been one of “longer shafts hit the ball farther.”
This is 110 percent, absolutely, positively true.
It is based on the physics of centrifugal force: When you swing a rock on the end of the string, as you let out more string, the rock goes faster.
Viola, build clubs longer, the rock (clubhead) will be swung faster and the ball will go farther.
Just about everyone wants, desires, and salivates for more distance. Thus, the distance sales pitch — plus throwing in, “ours goes straighter and has the biggest sweetspot” — has been one of the marketing marvels that has created driver delirium and boosted prices sky high. It seems golfers are willing to pay anything to find that “Big Stick” that goes forever.
The big question: Is a longer shaft really longer distance?
Twenty years ago, the standard spec for a driver shaft was 43 inches for most, if not all, of the club manufactures. Once they started stressing more distance — they knew centrifugal force of longer string swings the rock faster — they changed the length spec to 44 inches.
Then as we golfers bought their marketing message, proved by buying more drivers that cost even more, they upped the standard spec to 45 inches.
We kept buying, so they upped it to 46 inches in some models. The long drive competitors started using 48 inches then some, I believe, even got over 50 inches.
There was a Champions Tour player that used a driver that long for a few years. To swing it, he looked like he was in slow motion.
Longer shaft length became like car engine horsepower: More is longer and faster. But I want you to remember one important point here about MORE shaft length and horsepower:
They are also MORE DEADLY, when you lose control of them.
A longer shaft in a driver will hit the ball longer, guaranteed! Provided…you can:
1. Swing a longer club faster to produce more clubhead speed than a shorter one.
2. Hit the ball as solid as the shorter one.
3. Hit the ball as straight as the shorter one.
Just 3 little things (that the marketing folks forgot to tell you) have to happen to experience the euphoria of adding 20 to 30 yards to your drives.
Just 3 little things that are really quite difficult to do, and in many cases likely impossible, for many players to do.
Let’s take a look at why it is difficult to achieve these three requirements with a longer driver.
To swing a longer club faster, more energy and strength has to be added to the swing. If you can’t provide these two elements, you get NO added distance.
And as a negative bonus…you will hit it SHORTER.
The second requirement is hitting the ball more solid.
A longer driver has more margin for error by virtue of its longer total length. Add to that you have to swing harder, which likely means you will (consciously or unconsciously) begin tensing muscles in your hands, arms, shoulders, back and legs. Tense and tighter muscles move slower. More body movement is adding margin for error. All of these will reduce the percentage of solid contacts. Solid is important because two impacts (one solid, one not) with the same clubhead speed, will travel different distances. The solid one will be longer every time, guaranteed.
The third requirement of straight becomes a factor as a result of the inability to perform the first two requirements of increasing clubhead speed and solid contact. And, let’s say a player does increase his speed, and has solid contact, and hits it longer, but has bad direction, and hits it into trouble.
Is that any good?
Heck no!
Adding penalty shots, losing balls or having to chip out back into play does not help LOWER YOUR SCORE!
Or your attitude!
While playing with students or friends who bought into the longer drive hits longer shots ploy, I have seen them become totally oblivious to common sense and FACT. They drive the ball everywhere. One tee shot is a block slice, the next a pull hook, then next a chunk or pop up – sky ball off the top of the club.
The player has not even come close to solid and straight or even sniffed a fairway, if he hit it more than 100 yards, yet he trudges forward anticipating that super duper once-in-a-round-smoking-hot long ball.
And when it happens, they are like a junkie, they just got their fix.
They outdrove their playing partners. They have bragging rights and they use and abuse them. And, worst of all, like the drug addict after the fix, they dismiss, overlook, forget and refuse to recognize all the agony they experience between the fix.
All for longer drives.
I believe emphatically, preach and live the Surge Rule that if the driver in your bag is there because it is absolutely the one you hit the longest… it is also the one you hit the “crookedest.” (I know crookedest is not a word, but it sounds good here.)
The driver in my bag is not the longest… It is the one I hit the” STRAIGHTEST!”
Anyone who knows me, and has played with me, knows that I hit it straight. My game is built around hitting drives in the fairway. My mantra is “Fairways and Greens.”
I am a rising senior, 5’9″ and I play with a 44 inch driver, and average around 250 yards carry. I also have a 43 ½ inch for extra tight courses. I have played with a driver as short as 42 inches, the same as my 3 wood. I could hit it straight as a frozen clothes line, but I gave up too much distance and had to go back to a longer shaft for max distance and more importantly for max accuracy.
D.J is 6’3″ and presently plays with a 45″ driver. I say presently, because I am lobbying real hard to get him back to 44″ which is what he used in college and was exceptionally long and accurate. I just keep saying, at 44 inches, you’ll be a little more vertical, hit it more solid and straight and those add up to longer drives and more fairways and greens. Before he tees off, or if I am not at the tournament, I call or text, “Fairway and Greens… Patience.”
Right now, this year D.J.’s driving distance is 292.1 yds. and ranks 33rd. His driving accuracy rank is 20th at 70.03% fairways hit. He is 1st in total driving (accuracy and distance) and 6th in Greens in regulation at 70.07%. I am convinced these stats as good as they are, will improve using a 44″ driver. So I’ll keep lobbying, pleading and praying.
The PGA Tour today, in my opinion, has what I call a “BOMB IT” mentality.
The belief is that the farther they hit, the closer they get to the green, the shorter shot is easier, and they will hit more greens and hit it closer to the hole.
Sounds great!
Until you hit it in deep rough ,or behind trees, or whatever makes hitting the green more difficult even if you only have a wedge to the green. My Surgism for this type of playing mentality stressing distance first over accuracy is “Bomb it…rhymes with VOMIT.”
Last year, we were on the first tee to play a practice round at the Players Championship at TPC Sawgrass. D.J. was joined by a really good player who is a major champion. Waking to their drives after teeing off, D.J. noticed the player had a new type of driver he had not seen. The player handed it to D.J., and upon gripping it to look at and feel it, his first comment was a question, “How long is this thing?”
“46 inches” was the answer.
“But, the one I used at the Masters was 47 inches. I hit some realllllly long drives with it. But it was feast or famine. Fairway or the boondocks. So I cut it down to 46 inches.”
In my opinion, 45 inches is still too long, and if I were his teacher I would be recommending 44 inches.
So, what is the issue here?
We have to have adequate driving distance, especially when playing long courses. But, we cannot give up accuracy.
You have to find the maximum shaft length that still gives you maximum accuracy.
For PGA Tour players that is no problem.
They can have as many drivers built or re-shafted, as needed to find their optimum accuracy & distance shaft length, out on tour with the company fitting trailers or at the club companies test facilities. And they get this done for free.
For you amateurs, to do this would be quite expensive.
The best and least expensive way is to go to a course, driving range or club fitter that has a big inventory of drivers in different shaft length and flexes. With the expertise of a good fitter, you will find your optimum shaft length and flex (or frequency) for distance and accuracy.
If you do not know a good club fitter, ask players where you play, who the local pros and good players go to for their club needs. Or call local golf shops and ask the pros who they recommend. The key is to find a competent and experienced club fitter.
I will emphasize here that if your priority, like mine, is hitting more “fairways and Greens” you MUST place the emphasis on ACCURACY…not Distance.
And, I promise you, accuracy will still have good length off the tee when you find your optimum shaft length. I also am certain that a shaft length of 44 inches or less will be the range of length for most amateurs, especially seniors, ladies, and juniors.
Wishing you good weather…great golf…and…more Fairways and Greens!
The Surge!
P.S. Another way to get maximum length (consistently) is to use the swing D.J. and I both use that is based on the laws of gravity, physics and body mechanics.
A swing your body LIKES, and WANTS you to use — and will handsomely reward you for using (with longer & straighter shots, and ZERO pain).
Plus, to make it even more painless, I’ll even pay your shipping and give you a full year to use it without any risk. Your DVD’s are waiting for you right here in my office, just give me the green light and I’ll send them to you today:
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I accidently deleted yesterdays message on hitting the driver more consistant before I read it….how do I get a repeat??? I have enjoyed all of Don’s lessons…great stuff!!! I have ordered and received the 4 pack tapes. I have found on ebay and ordered one of his books “Golf Plain and Simpel”. I am sold…now send me the lesson I missed yesterday!! Thanks
Hi Don,
I recently purchased your DVD series and am still working on this ” new ” swing. It feels much better than my former swing and I am patiently working things out. My question for today though is concerning my not being able to hit a 3-wood (metal). I use the Sasquatch 5000 for a driver and love it. I just purchased the new Dymo 3-wood (metal) also by Nike but can’t hit it either. I can’t tell you how many I have tried and just CANNOT hit the 3-wood. What can be so different about this club than all my others. I am 63 years old and MUST have a 3-wood in my arsenal to be able to reach most greens in two.
I await your suggestion.
Bennie,
Here’s the link to the article that Don wrote yesterday:
http://www.peakperformancegolfswing.com/correct-driver-for-you/
Enjoy!
I totally agree with you regarding shorter clubs…Ben Hogan won one of his US Opens using Ladies length specs….if you can hit the driver or whatever off the tee 250 yards straight you can shoot par on any course in the world and if you have 27 or less putts you can break par consisently…Happy Golfing…
Bob Martin
London Ontario
Canada
Incredible about the grip. I always have used a grip like you described. After adjusting my grip hit the impact bag about 10 times. What is interesting is that you and Harvey Penick were right…the grip controls everything. It appears that I get in the right position at the top and can’t actually can’t go back as far whereas I feel the “stretch”. Can’t wait to see my ball stricking. Thanks Don and good luck DJ.
To measure the length of my driver do I just measure from the top of the grip to the top of the clubhead?
Thanks,
Larry Buss
Dear Don
Surely with the longer shaft there is more opportunity for torque during the swing, so the club face strikes the ball inconsistently?
Back in the ’sixties, limber shafts – as whippy as a radio ariel – were popular amongst older players. They generated more clubhead speed with less effort and with practice, one could achieve decent results. The downside was that the timing with the driver was then different from all the other clubs in the bag, so on a longish par 4, you might hit a 280 yard drive, but wind up digging up half the course with your 7 iron attempt at the remaining 150 yards!
Best regards
Lyall Davidson
To: Larry Buss; You measure a driver and all clubs from the top of the grip, to the bottom of the sole under the shaft, where the club touches the ground.
willie W: Since you can hit your driver, and cannot hit your 3 wood, I can only surmise that something is wrong with shaft. It is likely the wrong flex, too stiff or too flexible. You need to bring your driver and 3 wood to a club fitter and have him check the shaft flex/frequency of both. The key is since you hit the driver well, if the 3 wood is different (and it likely is quite different) he can reshaft it to match the driver. Another point is maybe a 3 wood with more loft may also help. But, check out the shaft flex first as well as this article just said, check the length also.
Hello Don,
I recently saw a video of yours with a golfer using an shortened back swing.If my memory serves me correct he called it a pull-push swing,I have tried it and it does work.Would this be one of your videos,if so is it available?
Mel Cook
IN YOUR ARTICLE ABOUT THE DRIVER-
“YOU LOOSE CONTROL” SHOULD BE “YOU LOSE CONTROL”..
ALSO, THE MAN WITH THE PROBLEM OF NOT BEING ABLE
TO HIT THE 3 WOOD: MAYBE HE IS TRYING TO USE IT FOR A FAIRWAY SHOT….
Thanks for the info. I have been away from the game for several years and started playing again about 8 months ago. I am younger now (66) and have found that I don’t fit my old clubs. I built a new set a couple of weeks ago and made my driver 44″ instead of 45″. It does help with accuracy and not much of a yardage loss. I am going to cut it down to a 43″ this weekend. Thanks for the reinforcement of my thought on this.
If one has a 45″ driver and wants it to be 44″, can you just choke up one inch? Anthony Kim chokes up on all of his clubs and he said he learned this from youth by using clubs to long for him. Now he could just have his clubs made shorter. Why doesn’t he do this?
Larry
Hi Don. I just read your artical about shaft length. I am 66 years old and a 6 handicap. I have been using a 48 inch shaft in my driver for the last 5 years. I hit the ball about 250 – 260 yards and stright. I had problems with the long shaft until I switched to a senior shaft. I can swing the club with less effort and get the distance I did when I was younger. I agree that it takes a lot better timing than with a shorter shaft, but once you get yout timing it is much easier to hit it long and stright with less effort. Jack Rice
Hi Don,
If you get a chance, I would really like to see an article on the importance or lack thereof of utilizing pure’d shafts.
Thanks,
Bob
To Larry Buss: Anthony Kim as well as Sergio, both choke down. Yes, they could cut down the length to where they choke up to. This is a matter of feel and confidence. I believe that the Flex and balance of a club is measured from the end of the butt and the shaft performs better from holding it to it’s complete length. AK and his club builder may have figured out how to get his exact load and kick of the shaft correct with his choke up, or is choking down on the grip.
To Robert Smith: You are getting down and serious with a question about pured shafts. I have been in the Pured shaft trailer on tour and got a briefing on them. I think there is something to it. I was told a few players are convinced it is an absolute must step for getting their shafts perfect. But I believe that overall it has not caught on yet with the majority of players. I am going to the Arnold Palmer’s Bay Hill classic and will stop in at the trailer (if it is there) and get the total picture on Puring shafts and get back and write an article as you request.
Don
To Mel Cook: The video about pull-push swing you ask about, I am sure is not mine. I believe the swing is best done with a pulling motion both in the backswing with the right side pulling away and in the forward swing with the left side pulling down. I never speak of pushing, because all our muscle groups work more efficiently and powerfully when they pull, especially in the golf swing.
Don
Is not the thickness of the grip of equal importance as well?
Hi Don, I just received your book to go along with my Peak Performance DVD’s…your teaching has not changed much since 1986 when you published the book. All good stuff!! One thing I did notice was in the book nothing is said about eliminating the word DOWN and swinging UP right from the transition. That little point in the vidio was worth the price of the entire set for me!! One question….if you want to take off 1 1/2 inches on the driver can you just take it off the butt or will that make the shaft stiffer?? Have really enjoyed all of your material…glad I got interested in your teaching. Wish DJ had of had a better first round this week!!
My mantra is “Fairways and Greens.”
I am a rising senior, 5’9″ and I play with a 44 inch driver, and average around 250 yards carry.
OK, I am a senior player. Like yourself, I am 5′9″ and I play a 44.5″ driver but dream of hitting a drive 250 yards. I have not missed a fairway in nearly a year and I play to a 12 handicap. I am not a power hitter like many players, be it my woods or irons. I average driving the ball between 200 and 220 yards. On the average I play at least two clubs longer than most of the players that I play with. My bag contains all Wishon clubs which I play well for my strength and hitting ability.
Can you suggest anything that would help me improve the length of my distance with my clubs while maintaining the accuracy? I am already using graphite shafts that are frequency matched for the lower end of the regular flex category. My swing speed for my irons is in the mid 70’s and the mid 80’s for my driver. Should I switch to a more flexible shaft?
Thanks, Tom
A viewer asked about the pull-push swing and you responded with “pull it back and then pull it through”. Thank you for that, I have ARTHER in my hands and I find that if I pull back with the right, then swing UP with the left, I have less pain.
Don, Regarding driver length, how important is loft in the equation. I have found the new drivers have more loft than advertised,( a 9.5 is really closer to 10.5), is this a trend, or is the extra loft really helping keep the balls in the air longer.
thanks for the great info,
alan
There is a new line of grips from Winn called Lite V17 (saw it in the Golfsmith clubmaking catalog). The weight of a standard grip is 25 g and that is for firm, medium or soft. That is a gain of 5 swingweight points over the standard 52 g Lamkin Crossline. So if one cuts the driver 1 inch, these grips will compensate,
I have a 44″ Ping G2 with a 42 g Winn Excel RF and the swingweight is D0. That would bring me to D3 if I chose to change.
I am 65 with a 44 driver swing speed in the 95 area but seems my carry is only about 200 yards.
Whats the problem ?
Thanks
Surge,
I am 55 years old, Hand. 8. I have a very short back swing,little less than 3/4. I only drive 210-220 yards,tops….How can I get to 240….Tried 44-46 inch shafts8 degees to 10.5. I get no roll(maybe 5-yards. )I have had this 3/4 back swing since 8 years old. Thanks
Dear Surge! I’ve been gravitating toward your swing philosophy for several months now, and as a “show me” kind of guy, I had to learn for myself how effective the physics of your teachings were. Simply put, it works. I’ve also become a big fan of DJ’s as I follow the PGA Tour throughout the season. What a nice young man and a great role model for our young golfers. Anyway, my question is regarding your article on the length of drivers these days. 44″ is long enough. My driver is a little longer than that (6′5″ with average length arms), but I always choke down an inch or so. If I come to a longer, more open hole with little penalty for misdirection, I may “let the shaft out” a bit. Most of the time I’m swinging a 44″ driver. Is this sound logic or am I losing something in my driver potential by choking down on it? Hoping to hear from you…
In closing, I want to say “thank you Don!” Love how you approach this wonderful game. Keep doing what you do, and don’t change a thing (except how we think about the golf swing). You’re more like a friend than a teacher. Fairways & Greens – Llewie
The length of your arms along with your shaft is really what should be measured! not just the shaft .
Good stuff! Thanks Don.